Sitting around the campfire of four middle aged Chilean men, Ari asked about the reputation of the U.S. They replied: Mata Democracia. Translated: Kills Democracy.
We do not know whether it is common knowledge or not in the U.S. regarding the CIA and the U.S. government's not so pleasant involvement in Latin American affairs. Regardless, it seems undeniable that the U.S government (under Nixon), especially the CIA, played a very direct role in first destabilizing the Salvador Allende government, which was democratically elected in 1970, and secondly, providing support to General Augusto Pinochet and the Chilean military to complete a military coup d'etat to replace the Allende government. Pinochet and his military junta reeked havoc on large parts of the country and its citizens from 1973 until 1989, when he was, ironically, voted out of power. The drastic effects of those awful years continue to plague many facets of the Chilean population and society.
As in Vietnam, it is difficult to walk proudly as an American (North American, we should say) and not feel as though you need to ask forgiveness on behalf of your government. As with all places we´ve been, it seems as though the people draw a very distinct line between U.S. citizens and our government. Evidence of this demonstrates itself in the incredible hospitality that the Chilean people have displayed towards us, regardless of our nationality. The four Chilean men practically forced Ari to consume mate, whiskey, wine, and barbecued shish kebabs...all things that they had to carry on their backs to our campsite, many miles from the trailhead. Additionally, they had tremendous patience with Ari´s slowly improving Spanish.
A couple days later, we met Gito and his wonderful wife. They run a little cafe at the bottom of the mountain. Their enthusiasm in meeting us and spending time with us was inspiring. They showed no signs of fatigue or impatience, although they deal with tourists and foreigners all year. It felt as though we were their first customers. Gito was very excited about us being from the U.S. because we could then send him a new U.S. flag to replace the tattered, faded U.S. flag he currently has hanging with other flags from around the world. We inquired, somewhat jokingly, as to whether he was certain he wanted to continue displaying a U.S. flag, as not everyone thinks highly of the U.S. in Latin America. He said, "Of course, I like all people, regardless of where they´re from. We all die the same way in the end anyways."
Gito really enjoyed telling jokes about the Casa Blanca (White House) and the Cowboy (President Bush) who lives inside. We told Gito that should he and his wife ever visit the U.S., they can stay in our home. Gito replied, ¨thanks, but no thanks...I already have a reservation at the Casa Blanca..."
Friday, November 9, 2007
Transitions...
After the intensity of the Camino, we headed north, back into France. A two day trip on the trains got us to Plum Village, near Bordeaux. Plum Village is a Buddhist Monastery headed by Thich Nhat Hanh, an 83 year old Vietnamese Buddhist Monk, who is a world renowned peace activist. He was exiled from Vietnam for opposing the Vietnam War. Martin Luther King, Jr. nominated him for a Noble Peace Prize. He has written over 40 books about peace, meditation, and Buddhism. We spent a week at Plum Village (in the middle of never ending vineyards) enjoying amazing Vietnamese food, practicing meditation and learning (hopefully) how to be more peaceful. Unfortunately Thich Nhat Hanh was not there, as he was ironically in the U.S. on a teaching tour.
We then went home to Bend for four chaotic, jet-lagged days before flying south to Santiago Chile, where we commenced the final two months of our epic year.
We then went home to Bend for four chaotic, jet-lagged days before flying south to Santiago Chile, where we commenced the final two months of our epic year.
Jew on the Camino
First of all, we did it. We completed the 500 miles across Northern Spain. 31 days, with only one day of complete rest. Every inch of it with our legs, determination, and ratty shoes, which were rather inadequate, as we have been travelling with only one pair of shoes and one pair of sandals since January. We used the shoes for the walking and the sandals for the showers.
Many may wonder why a Jew would walk the Camino de Santiago, one of the most important Christian pilgrimages. Before we began, I had wondered the same. I worried a bit whether we would be continually bombarded by talk of Jesus and/or proselytising. Besides the abundance of small, medium and enormous churches, very little about religion or God or Jesus was ever discussed or mentioned, unless we would instigate such topics. Ironically, I felt much less bombarded with religious issues than when in the U.S., where religion seems to be continually invoked by politicians, media, society in general. Furthermore, When I told people that I was Jewish, it made no difference to them. Most walking the Camino had very little to no religious reasons for walking it. On a few occasions we received blessings from priests and lay people, which I really enjoyed.
With that said, walking 500 miles of the Camino was one the most spiritual, uplifting, emotional, and peaceful experiences of my life. As with our entire trip this year, it was the people. Such a supportive and encouraging environment. Friends that you made along the way would come and go. You would walk with someone for half a day, and then not come across them for a day, a week, or two weeks. When you would stumble across each other again, it would often be like meeting an old friend - hugs, kisses, and yells of excitement. When you would encounter people in Santiago, where we all finished, there would sometimes even be tears. Although Lisa and I are relatively young and fit, it was still a tremendous physical challenge. I cannot begin to imagine those who were twice our age and walked from Le Puy (France) to Santiago (1000 miles). Or the wonderful French man who had to carry a C-Pap machine for his sleep apnea so that he would not die in his sleep. Dale with a heart transplant. Frank who is blind...And so many more that we met and did not meet.
What is also amazing is that the vast majority were doing the Camino alone. As a pair, and especially a married pair, we were in the minority. Nonetheless, those who began alone were never truly alone and surely did not finish alone.
Within the first couple of days on the Camino, we heard of a woman walking from Russia to Santiago. I don´t want to even imagine how far that is or what it would do to my back and knees. This, however, got Lisa thinking. It wasn´t long (and not to my surprise) that she proposed that when we retire (hopefully at the age of 50) that we should walk from Moscow to Santiago. For now, I´m content with what we did and need a little time to heal the aching legs and back and to further absorb what we just accomplished.
Many may wonder why a Jew would walk the Camino de Santiago, one of the most important Christian pilgrimages. Before we began, I had wondered the same. I worried a bit whether we would be continually bombarded by talk of Jesus and/or proselytising. Besides the abundance of small, medium and enormous churches, very little about religion or God or Jesus was ever discussed or mentioned, unless we would instigate such topics. Ironically, I felt much less bombarded with religious issues than when in the U.S., where religion seems to be continually invoked by politicians, media, society in general. Furthermore, When I told people that I was Jewish, it made no difference to them. Most walking the Camino had very little to no religious reasons for walking it. On a few occasions we received blessings from priests and lay people, which I really enjoyed.
With that said, walking 500 miles of the Camino was one the most spiritual, uplifting, emotional, and peaceful experiences of my life. As with our entire trip this year, it was the people. Such a supportive and encouraging environment. Friends that you made along the way would come and go. You would walk with someone for half a day, and then not come across them for a day, a week, or two weeks. When you would stumble across each other again, it would often be like meeting an old friend - hugs, kisses, and yells of excitement. When you would encounter people in Santiago, where we all finished, there would sometimes even be tears. Although Lisa and I are relatively young and fit, it was still a tremendous physical challenge. I cannot begin to imagine those who were twice our age and walked from Le Puy (France) to Santiago (1000 miles). Or the wonderful French man who had to carry a C-Pap machine for his sleep apnea so that he would not die in his sleep. Dale with a heart transplant. Frank who is blind...And so many more that we met and did not meet.
What is also amazing is that the vast majority were doing the Camino alone. As a pair, and especially a married pair, we were in the minority. Nonetheless, those who began alone were never truly alone and surely did not finish alone.
Within the first couple of days on the Camino, we heard of a woman walking from Russia to Santiago. I don´t want to even imagine how far that is or what it would do to my back and knees. This, however, got Lisa thinking. It wasn´t long (and not to my surprise) that she proposed that when we retire (hopefully at the age of 50) that we should walk from Moscow to Santiago. For now, I´m content with what we did and need a little time to heal the aching legs and back and to further absorb what we just accomplished.
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