We met Dr. Michael von Pupka Lipinski (aka Pupka) according to plan at the Dangerous Kitchen in Takaka, which is located in the northwest corner of the south island in an area aptly named Golden Bay, for it's history of gold mining. Earlier that day we had tackled Takaka Hill, which was the longest and tallest "hill" we had cycled in NZ. It was approximately 2400 feet in elevation gain and 10 miles long and we began at sea level. This may not sound overwhelming, but with a bike loaded down with everything you need to survive, it was formidable.
As a result, we were very much looking forward to meeting Pupka and having him drive us and our bikes to his home (conveniently located on the top of a mountain) where we would spend a week working on his property in exchange for room and board. I had clarified twice, via telephone and his thick German accent, that he would transport us and our bikes to the top of Mt. Pupka.
When we met at the Dangerous Kitchen, he asked if he could have a little more time to do some shopping and then he would collect our "luggage" so we could ride our bikes "luggage free." He said it was 9 miles. While we weren't thrilled, it was only 9 mile and without luggage.
As we walked our bikes to his heavy duty, 4WD van, he greeted friends in the street, introduced us, at which point they looked at our bikes and asked if we were doing the "mountain?" and we readily and proudly responded "no, we just rode up the mountain," assuming they were referring to Takaka Hill. We continued to Pupka's van, when he stopped and pointed way off into the hills and said, "I think you can see my house from here." We saw a little speck on top of the highest "hill" in the area. We began to be concerned, very concerned. We asked what the elevation at the top of Mount Pupka and he said 2000 feet. Oh, we thought, and then asked what the elevation in town was and he responded, 60 feet. Uh oh, we thought, that was nearly equivalent to what we had just ridden. Furthermore, the road to Mt. Pupka was allegedly unpaved. Pupka had hinted we may need to walk our bikes at some point.
We suddenly began to panic. We quickly looked in the van and discovered that there was no middle seat, just piles of junk. We timidly asked if there was any possibility that the bikes would fit in the van. He seemed hesitant and mumbled something about no seat belts in the back seat and it being illegal to have passengers. Obviously we were willing to risk our lives and a fine if we didnt' have to ride to the top of Mt. Pupka. He grudgingly conceded.
It turns out, the road was a nightmare. It was a nightmare even via a heavy duty 4WD van. It probably would have taken more than 3 hours to walk our bikes up the mountain, not ride them. It was un-rideable. Not because of the steepness, but because of the giant ruts, rocks, and dirt. At times it didn't appear that a road existed. We most certainly would have gotten lost. No street signs. Our road bikes wouldn't have known what hit them. His van could barely maneuver the "road." Lisa knows all to well as she sat in the backseat, without a seat belt, sandwiched by the bikes and his junk, being bounced around like a 3rd grader in the back of the bus.
At one point Ari subtly mentioned to Pupka that he didn't think we could have ridden up the hill and he smiled quizzically, and said it would have been good exercise.
Exercise we thought, what a novel concept... We had more exercise over the previous month than the previous year combined.
Situated atop Mt. Pupka, it is easy to forget the rest of the world exists. There is an easy serenity that comes with not hearing other noises- cars, business, people- just each other, the birds and the wind. Pupka is very kind and generous and a wonderful cook/brewmaster. Our first day of work was shaped by heavy winds and rain so we worked on clearing out his greenhouse in preparation for his next crop. The rest of the time was spent helping him repaint his house (we thought after painting our own house that we would never do that again, but...). We had one night "out" with Pupka in town, and treated Pupka to a beer while we listened to local music. Pupka told us we were the first volunteers in five years that have bought him a beer.
Despite the fact that Pupka is 61, there is a boyish innocense about him. Our memories of him will include his daily attempts of translating German calendar jokes, his dog Heidi, his quirky humor, his kindness and respect. He has some qualities that we admire and hope to preserve.
The only flaw of our stay was a pesky little mouse that shared our room that we named Ralph. The first two nights were consumed with Ari violently twitching and jumping up at each sound of the mouse. It consumed his nights, maybe that's why he was been waking up edgy?
But overall, an amazing experience. Thank you Pupka.
As a result, we were very much looking forward to meeting Pupka and having him drive us and our bikes to his home (conveniently located on the top of a mountain) where we would spend a week working on his property in exchange for room and board. I had clarified twice, via telephone and his thick German accent, that he would transport us and our bikes to the top of Mt. Pupka.
When we met at the Dangerous Kitchen, he asked if he could have a little more time to do some shopping and then he would collect our "luggage" so we could ride our bikes "luggage free." He said it was 9 miles. While we weren't thrilled, it was only 9 mile and without luggage.
As we walked our bikes to his heavy duty, 4WD van, he greeted friends in the street, introduced us, at which point they looked at our bikes and asked if we were doing the "mountain?" and we readily and proudly responded "no, we just rode up the mountain," assuming they were referring to Takaka Hill. We continued to Pupka's van, when he stopped and pointed way off into the hills and said, "I think you can see my house from here." We saw a little speck on top of the highest "hill" in the area. We began to be concerned, very concerned. We asked what the elevation at the top of Mount Pupka and he said 2000 feet. Oh, we thought, and then asked what the elevation in town was and he responded, 60 feet. Uh oh, we thought, that was nearly equivalent to what we had just ridden. Furthermore, the road to Mt. Pupka was allegedly unpaved. Pupka had hinted we may need to walk our bikes at some point.
We suddenly began to panic. We quickly looked in the van and discovered that there was no middle seat, just piles of junk. We timidly asked if there was any possibility that the bikes would fit in the van. He seemed hesitant and mumbled something about no seat belts in the back seat and it being illegal to have passengers. Obviously we were willing to risk our lives and a fine if we didnt' have to ride to the top of Mt. Pupka. He grudgingly conceded.
It turns out, the road was a nightmare. It was a nightmare even via a heavy duty 4WD van. It probably would have taken more than 3 hours to walk our bikes up the mountain, not ride them. It was un-rideable. Not because of the steepness, but because of the giant ruts, rocks, and dirt. At times it didn't appear that a road existed. We most certainly would have gotten lost. No street signs. Our road bikes wouldn't have known what hit them. His van could barely maneuver the "road." Lisa knows all to well as she sat in the backseat, without a seat belt, sandwiched by the bikes and his junk, being bounced around like a 3rd grader in the back of the bus.
At one point Ari subtly mentioned to Pupka that he didn't think we could have ridden up the hill and he smiled quizzically, and said it would have been good exercise.
Exercise we thought, what a novel concept... We had more exercise over the previous month than the previous year combined.
Situated atop Mt. Pupka, it is easy to forget the rest of the world exists. There is an easy serenity that comes with not hearing other noises- cars, business, people- just each other, the birds and the wind. Pupka is very kind and generous and a wonderful cook/brewmaster. Our first day of work was shaped by heavy winds and rain so we worked on clearing out his greenhouse in preparation for his next crop. The rest of the time was spent helping him repaint his house (we thought after painting our own house that we would never do that again, but...). We had one night "out" with Pupka in town, and treated Pupka to a beer while we listened to local music. Pupka told us we were the first volunteers in five years that have bought him a beer.
Despite the fact that Pupka is 61, there is a boyish innocense about him. Our memories of him will include his daily attempts of translating German calendar jokes, his dog Heidi, his quirky humor, his kindness and respect. He has some qualities that we admire and hope to preserve.
The only flaw of our stay was a pesky little mouse that shared our room that we named Ralph. The first two nights were consumed with Ari violently twitching and jumping up at each sound of the mouse. It consumed his nights, maybe that's why he was been waking up edgy?
But overall, an amazing experience. Thank you Pupka.
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